Into the blue of a remote greek seaside, far away from Athens. I am in Koufonisia, an island hidden away between the larger Cycladic islands of Naxos and Amorgos. A place with no real roads and hardly any cars. Here I find more boats than residents; where locals live mainly from fishing.
In the eastern end of the Cyclades archipelago, Koufonisia is made up of 3 parts: Pano, Kato and Keros, the last being still off-limits and a site of archeological significance. It’s not a viable destination for daytrippers; until three summers ago, there wasn’t even a direct ferry from Athens. Electricity only arrived in 1980, internet access remains tricky, and there is only one ATM in the entire archipelago.
In the shadow of easily accessible islands such as Mykonos and Naxos, Koufonisia has been long forgotten by tourism. The low key vibe (and embryonic development) is what makes it unique among so many other summer destinations in the Med. “It has the most transparent blue water in the Aegean,” I hear from a few Greeks. But above all, it does feel like a wilderness.
Coming to Koufonisia, meeting its people and observing the archipelago’s slow-paced routine is a throwback to Greece’s glory days. As I walk on the coast along dramatic cliffs towards Pori’s beach, I watch the inhabited island of Keros. Then I think about the middle age times, and picture in my head how during trade wars between Venice and the Ottoman Empire, the people of Koufonisia never ally with either. Instead, they chose to support adventurous pirates.
Into de blue of a remote Greek seaside
Koufonisia’s old town
With whitewashed Cycladic cottages. Here I find no real roads and hardly any cars
From the old port, I walk south
Along empty cliffs
Wind picking up
Before reaching Pori’s long beach
Views to Keros
Back to Any Koufonissi, goats in every corner
Like seafaring buses…En route to Nero Beach
Etched into the rocky edges of the island’s southern coast
The century old Taverna
Venetsanos taverna: the only restaurant in Kato Koufonisia, where I watch magic happens
People of Koufonisia
A place that remains authentic to its roots, which is for the most part Koufonisia’s greatest appeal
Practical Information
| Destination | Koufonisia, Greece |
|---|---|
| Best time to visit | June and September are ideal — the Aegean is warm, the island is alive but not overwhelmed. July and August are peak season when Koufonisia gets busier than it used to be, though still far quieter than Mykonos or Santorini. Outside summer (October–May) most tavernas and accommodation close. |
| Getting there | Fly to Athens (ATH) or Mykonos (JMK) — there is no airport on Koufonisia. From Mykonos, a ferry takes around 2 hours. From Athens' Piraeus port, the overnight ferry takes around 7–8 hours; a direct high-speed connection also operates seasonally (around 4 hours). Book ferries in advance in summer via ferryhopper.com or directferries.com. There are no cars for hire on the island — bring walking shoes. |
| Where to stay | Aeolos Hotel — a well-regarded small hotel in the centre of Pano Koufonisia, 200 metres from the port and walking distance to all beaches, with pool and sea views. Also recommended by Yolo Journal: Eros Keros — four Cycladic-style houses with stunning views of the Aegean and the archaeological island of Keros, described as a Greek home away from home with direct access to morning swims and the soul of the Aegean. |
| Currency | Euro (EUR). There is only one ATM on the island — bring sufficient cash. |
| Language | Greek. Basic English spoken in hotels and tavernas. |
| Visa | No visa required for EU/Schengen citizens. US, UK, and most other nationalities enter visa-free for up to 90 days. |
| Notes | Kato Koufonisia is reached by a small boat taxi from Pano — the Venetsanos taverna there is the only restaurant on the island and worth the short crossing. Keros (the third island) remains off-limits due to ongoing archaeological excavations — its flat-faced Cycladic marble statues inspired Picasso and Henry Moore. The coastal walk from the port to Pori beach via the clifftops is unmissable. Internet is unreliable throughout — embrace the disconnect. |
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