f you endure an eight-hour sail from Athens to remote Patmos - one of the northernmost islands of Greece's Dodecanese archipelago - you are likely to arrive at night. Your first sight will seem an impossibility - a circle of light floating several hundred feet above the sea. This is Chora, Patmos' capital. This majestic citadel city is presided over by the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian, steeped in Greek Orthodox tradition as the site of divine revelation, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Greece's most revered monasteries.
Chora sprawls over the summit of a hill from the grey fortress-monastery and is the backdrop to white, silent villages, framed by the Aegean sea's deep blue.
Winding outwards from the illustrious Monastery are labyrinthine passageways, leading to unassuming entrances that open into grand homes adorned with vibrant gardens, Venetian-style painted rooms, and patios paved with stones from Lambi. Chora sprawls over the summit of a hill from the grey fortress-monastery and is the backdrop to white, silent villages, framed by the Aegean sea’s deep blue. It’s a poor landscape, the bays and jagged promontories of Patmos, with their raw outcrops of reddish rock and olive green hills veined with snaking stone walls, so bare, for the most part, that it seems untouched.
The island has a certain feeling of disconnectedness too. The nearest international airports, Kos, where I first land, and Samos – both four hours away by ferry, or boat. This is somehow part of what makes the island so special – paradise has never been an easy place to get to after all. Its relative inaccessibility means Patmos has not been blighted by the big hotel developments. Utterly charming, it’s famed for being the discerning guests’ heavenly scape. I see elegantly dressed Italians all around and come across Greeks from all over.
It’s mid-August – peak summer season everywhere in the Med. Yet it feels like Patmos ticks all the Greek-idyll boxes without the crowds. The beaches are pristine and the whole island has an unexploited, old-fashioned feel. I love spending the day at Petra Beach, six kilometers southeast of Chora, with its cozy, relaxed beach club vibe, followed by an easygoing lunch at the Kitma Petra Taverna. Further north in Lampi Beach, about 10 km from Skala, Patmos’ city center, is Lampi Fish, a fabulous feet-on-sand place where time returns to the basics of the original Greek Taverna.
It's mid-August - peak summer season everywhere in the Med. Yet it feels like Patmos ticks all the Greek-idyll boxes without the crowds.
The island’s heart resides in Chora’s main square, a gathering place framed by a lively selection of restaurants and bars. As the heat of the day mellows into a balmy evening, it becomes the focal point that draws everyone in for a night out. There are hundreds of Greek islands, many famous for many reasons, but some have an indefinable energy that sets them apart. Patmos, with its soul anchored in Chora, is one of them. I come to Chora every evening, but decide to base myself elsewhere. Always close to the water, I split my stay between the tranquil charm of Paralia Sapsila, a hidden gem between Skala and Grikos, and the hills of Alykes Beach in Patmos’s southern expanse.
Practical Information
| Destination | Patmos, Greece |
|---|---|
| Best time to visit | June, July or September. Avoid August — too hot, too crowded, and far more expensive. |
| Getting there | No airport on Patmos. Fly to Kos (closest international airport) or Leros, then take a ferry. Direct overnight ferries also run from Athens' Piraeus port (approx. 8–10 hrs). |
| Where to stay | Pagostas in Chora — a beautifully restored 3-room guesthouse in a 16th-century building, with secret garden and rooftop terrace overlooking the sea. Patmos 360 — three historical properties in Chora restored by architect Katerina Tsigarida, available for rent. White Key Villas for a wider selection of rental homes across the island. |
| Currency | Euro (EUR) |
| Language | Greek |
| Visa | No visa required for EU/Schengen. Schengen rules apply for others. |
| Notes | A car is essential to explore the island's beaches, restaurants and hikes. Chora is the place to be at night. The Cave of the Apocalypse and Monastery of St. John are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. |
3 Comments
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fingers crossed :)
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Dee
I happed to search Patmos because I was reading Revelation 10. And Revelation is believed to have been written by John from Patmos Island who could be Jesus's favorite Apostle John. Would like to visit there someday... It looks magical!
Saint wilkes
Hope to make it there one day