razil’s northeastern states—Ceará, Piauí, and Maranhão—stretch horizontally across the country’s shoulder, each bordering the warm Atlantic Ocean just south of the equator. This region has a semi-arid climate, receiving less than 700 millimeters of rainfall each year. Despite this, it is dotted with lush tropical deltas, winding rivers, and endless, pristine beaches.
Known for some of the most reliable and intense wind conditions in the world, this area is a top destination for kitesurfing—and that’s why I keep coming back.
Known for some of the most reliable and intense wind conditions in the world, this area is a top destination for kitesurfing—and that’s why I keep coming back. Last year, I combined a kite trip to Prea, staying at Rancho do Peixe —a hotel I hold dear to my heart—with an adventurous road trip across the remote Parnaíba Delta, one of the world’s great river deltas. While kitesurfing has become increasingly popular in northeast Brazil, the best spots are still in small fishing villages between Fortaleza and Jericoacoara, Ceará. Few visitors venture to this isolated delta where the 1,056-mile-long Parnaíba River dissolves into a mosaic of jungle islets, shifting sandbars, and wind-sculpted dunes. We stayed on Ilha dos Poldros, a 3,000-acre island owned by a Spanish tanning magnate, who turned his piece of paradise into a retreat made from local carnauba palm wood, stone, glass, and thatch. It features a swimming pool and two cabanas. The island feels otherworldly, far from everything, and alive with the sounds of frogs, birds, insects, and monkeys echoing across the delta—a true adventure.
On another trip in the region, I decided to spend less time on the road and combine kite surfing with quality family time. Jericoacoara, or “Jeri” as it’s affectionately called, seemed perfect for that. Not only is it one of Brazil’s most cinematic spots, nestled between a stunning national park and the sea, but it’s also home to the sister hotel of Prea’s Rancho do Peixe.
Vila Kalango was founded over 25 years ago when a group of windsurfing friends fell in love with Ceará’s constant winds. Today, it offers a charming, rustic experience that preserves the laid-back spirit of the old Jeri. Located on tropical grounds filled with coconut trees next to Duna do Pôr do Sol beach, it is just 2 km from Pedra Furada—a famous cluster of caves and rock paintings. The bohemian-style rooms feature stylish wood furnishings and canopy beds with mosquito nets. Upgraded rooms add open-plan sitting areas, while the charming thatched-roof cottages have private balconies—some on stilts with ocean views. Some rooms come with air conditioning, while others are cooled by ceiling fans.
Hidden beyond towering white sand dunes, Jericoacoara is only accessible by 4×4 or sand buggy. It enchants visitors with its secluded location—accessible via unpaved tracks through dunes—yet offers breathtaking coastal scenery and a variety of exciting activities. Though no longer a secret hideaway, its sunsets rank among the most beautiful in the world. I love the harmony of staying at Rancho do Peixe in Prea and Vila Kalango in Jeri, switching between the two depending on my mood (they offer a free shuttle service several times a day). There’s something truly special about these places. No matter where I am, I start each day with a delicious breakfast—barefoot, with my toes in the sand—before the adventures begin. These are more than accommodations; they are experiences, a state of mind, where rustic charm meets warm Brazilian hospitality, fostering a sense of belonging that feels like family. I can’t wait to return.
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