y husband and I have always embraced the thrill of adventurous road trips. When our twin girls were born three years ago, I briefly feared that our globe-trotting lifestyle would be upended by two tiny humans. However, I soon realized that wasn’t the case. We began traveling with our daughters, Bella and Rafa, when they were just eight weeks old, embarking on their first journey beyond our home with a long-haul flight from Munich to Rio de Janeiro. As I began getting more sleep at night, I became bolder about how and where we could take our girls. When they turned nine months, we drove from Southern Germany to Portofino, Italy, and at ten months, we braved a nine-hour drive to the south of France. With each trip, I became increasingly convinced our family of four could explore any destination we desired, regardless of kid-friendly amenities. This adventurous spirit opened doors to many European destinations and far-off places, including northeastern Brazil, Saint Barths, South Africa, and the islands of Sao Tome & Principe in West Africa. These travel experiences set the stage for our next ambitious adventure as Rafa and Bella turned three: a boat expedition followed by an epic 2,500-mile road trip from Southern to remote Northern Patagonia. Traveling with toddlers in such a sparsely populated region is challenging, but we refuse to let that deter us from exploring the places that inspire us. We packed three suitcases, a few toys—two teddies, crayons, and children's books—and absolutely no screens. For one and a half months, we traversed one of the planet’s most extensive wild frontiers.
For one and a half months, we traversed one of the planet’s most extensive wild frontiers.
Upon returning to land, we self-drive northward, pausing in Puerto Natales before heading to Torres del Paine— Chile’s prized national park. Spectacular granite towers rise from the Patagonian steppe like the spires of some vast cathedral. To optimize our visit, we strategically alternate our stay among three distinct locations within the sprawling 242,000-hectare park. I realize that keeping the kids’ routines – especially their meal and sleep times – during travel is crucial for providing them with a sense of safety and comfort, regardless of how many different beds they sleep in.
When road-tripping with toddlers, we consider two factors: planning their meals—because food and mood are closely linked—and understanding the optimal number of hours they can tolerate being in a car. As we leave Explora, we pack healthy snacks and lunches for our drive to El Calafate, in southwest Santa Cruz Province, crossing the border into Argentina. The journey is relatively short, through mountains, vast plains, and turquoise lakes framed by the Andes. El Calafate lies on the southern edge of Lake Argentino, near Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site spanning 600,000 hectares. We stroll along the park’s walkway drawn toward its crown jewel: the extraordinary Perito Moreno Glacier, a striking 200-foot-tall ice formation, almost otherworldly in its beauty.
A scenic route takes us to the laid-back hiking village of El Chaltén, nestled in the shadow of two iconic peaks: Mount Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, both revered in the mountaineering world. In this National Trekking Capital of Argentina, I horseback ride across open fields and mountains, surrounded by wild horses at the feet of Fitz Roy, while my husband babysits. The next day, we set off on the popular full-day hike to Mirador Fitz Roy, other hikers marvel at how brave we are for carrying the girls in our backpack carriers. The first part of the hike is a heavy, steep uphill climb over rocks and boulders, the second one a relatively easy flat through the forest. Adventures further afield, and in unexpected ways are often the most exciting for the kids, and despite the effort, a precious experience for us. We picnic and play at the summit and, to our delight, the girls walk for most of the way back down.
“Established in 2012, Parque Patagonia is one of several conservation efforts aimed at preserving threatened habitats in Argentina,” shares Natalia, the manager of La Posta de los Toldos, a former ranch turned park lodge where we stay. “Rewilding Argentina, an initiative started by the late US entrepreneur Doug Tompkins, founder of North Face, and his wife, Kristine McDivitt Tompkins, former CEO of brand Patagonia, leads the restoration of 180,000 hectares of overgrazed land into a national park,” she explains. The foundation works to acquire and rehabilitate land, ultimately donating it to the government to recover ecosystems and promote eco-tourism, transitioning local economies from traditional ranching to sustainable practices. Only 17,000 tourists visit this park each year, a far cry from other Argentinian Patagonian destinations like Perito Moreno Glacier, which draws millions of travelers annually.
We visit – and play – in Parque Patagonia’s remarkable planetarium and hike to the heart of the Park through the Cañadón Caracoles to explore the prehistoric art gallery La Cueva de las Manos Pintadas, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tucked beneath an overhang on cliffs above the Pinturas River Canyon, it features over 800 stenciled handprints and painted images of animals. Created with mineral pigments mixed with blood and fat by the Tehuelches, the original inhabitants of Patagonia. It dates from between 11,000 and 1,000 years ago, indicating ten thousand years of practically continuous occupation.
Back in our car, we head south, navigating the rugged Ruta 41 and “Paso Roballo” through a savage, uninhabited country. The gravel road breaks free to vistas of scarred ethereal mountains rearing above water meadows. For hours, we encounter no one. Upon crossing into Chile, we enter Patagonia National Park in Valley Chacabuco, across some of the most beautiful landscapes of the trip. Here, the untamed wildness of Patagonia feels untouched by human hands. We break the long drive, allowing the girls to run freely across the expansive fields. It’s a special region, the dry Patagonian steppe converging with the wet Southern beech forests of the west where a rare transition zone across 80,937 hectares boasts diverse wildlife. The landscape, sculpted by relentless sun and fierce winds, coexists harmoniously with glaciers, lush forests, and snow-capped peaks.
The Ruta 7 takes us through Aysén, Chile’s least populated and lesser-known region of Patagonia, nestled between the Lake District to the north and Torres del Paine National Park to the south. “Before the road was built, much of this area was accessible only on foot, horseback, or by boat,” reveals Nelson, the skipper of our boat on Bertrand Lake. Nelson’s grandfather was among Aysén’s first settlers, predating any roads. “The Carretera changed everything, but this part of Patagonia still feels isolated,” he adds. Indeed, we are deep in Chilean Patagonia, untouched and remote. Access to the region was always easier across the Andes from Argentina rather than down the length of Chile from Santiago which partly explains its splendid isolation.
With over 700 square miles, no visitor to Aysén can overlook Lake General Carrera (known as Lake Buenos on the Argentinian side). We spend two nights in a cabin at Mallín Colorado Ecolodge, perched on a hillside above its pristine azure waters, soaking in views that will stick with us forever. Our journey north continues through Aysén’s glacial lakes and glaciers, the mountains accompanying us along the Carretera’s length. After a couple of hours on the road, we pause at Mirador Ibañez, the girls inside the car playing with stones and tree leaves. Outside, the brutal Patagonian wind. Amidst a tumult of clouds, we catch our first glimpse of the “Castillo,” the eponymous castle that lends its name to the National Park we’re heading toward—an iconic image along the Carretera Austral.
Amidst a tumult of clouds, we catch our first glimpse of the "Castillo," the eponymous castle that lends its name to the National Park we’re heading toward—an iconic image along the Carretera Austral.
In search of stillness, we cozy up in a cabin surrounded by raw nature just outside Cerro Castillo, a modest village reminiscent of those we’ve passed over the last few days. One of the most alluring aspects of traveling along the Carretera is the small communities we encounter, where residents maintain a traditional rural lifestyle, tending to small farms and living in hand-built shacks by the roadside. From our cabin, we face the jagged rocky peak, “Castillo”, appearing to float above the snowfields below. Making our way to nearby Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez as we drive through Las Ardillas, we come across dramatic views. Most travelers we meet are hikers or climbers drawn to Patagonia’s mountains, yet this area remains largely unknown, attracting around 300,000 visitors annually
To enjoy traveling here, we don’t need to do much. Just driving and looking is already an adventure. We feel a profound sense of freedom as we journey northward, passing Coyhaique, the capital of Aysén, and entering the temperate rainforest of Queulat National Park. Along the way, multiple waterfalls cascade down pristine mountains. The town of Puyuhuapi, with its population of around 500, sits at the head of a fjord near a magnificent hanging glacier of Queulat—an expanse of blue-green ice resting between two mountain peaks close to where we spend the night.
The following day, we venture deeper into the wilds of Chile’s last frontier.
The following day, we venture deeper into the wilds of Chile’s last frontier. Rivers reign supreme in this landscape; a dynamic network of turbulent waterways surges forth from the Andes, carving through canyons and cascading into dark, tranquil lakes. Our path leads us to Futaleufú, remarkably off the radar even for Chileans. The town is challenging to reach—requiring a 2.5-hour flight to Puerto Montt followed by a 12-hour drive or a flight to Esquel from Buenos Aires followed by a 2-hour drive. It is named after its river, one of the world’s premier whitewater rafting venues with help from a nanny, Max and I gear up, making our way to the riverbank armed with paddles and life jackets, ready to face some of the planet’s most exhilarating rapids. The anticipation is electrifying.
South of the small town of Futaleufú lies Pata Lodge, a rustic resort featuring six stylish cabins nestled within an amphitheater of mountains, enveloped by lush forests. I revel in every aspect of this haven: the tranquility, the river, the trees, and the delicious home-cooked, farm-to-table meals. As sunlight pours down, we float on the river with the girls, their laughter echoing as they dip their tiny toes into the icy water. It’s a magical place. Marcelo Schaffer, one of Pata’s Brazilian co-founders, shares his insights on forest conservation and sustainable living. Marcelo relocated here with his family from São Paulo in pursuit of a more environmentally conscious future, and his passion resonates deeply with us. Pata is not just a superb lodge in paradise; it is the realization of a dream dedicated to preserving nature. Outside, our children run freely in Pata’s expansive garden, handpicking fresh vegetables and fruits. I reflect on how travel transcends memories of landscapes. I can’t imagine a better place to be with my kids—one where they can have a bigger taste of a world that’s beautiful and also still filled with kindness and wonder.
Practical Information
| Destination | Patagonia — Chile & Argentina |
|---|---|
| Best time to visit | November to March (Southern Hemisphere summer) for road-tripping, hiking, and rafting — longer daylight hours, milder temperatures, and most lodges open. October and April offer beautiful light and fewer visitors. Torres del Paine is open year-round but winter (June–August) brings extreme cold and limited access. |
| Getting there | Fly to Punta Arenas (PUQ) for southern Chilean Patagonia and Torres del Paine, or El Calafate (FTE) in Argentina for Los Glaciares National Park. For the Carretera Austral (Aysén), fly to Balmaceda (BBA) near Coyhaique. Futaleufú is most easily reached from Buenos Aires via Esquel (EQS) in Argentina, followed by a 90-minute road transfer across the border. A self-drive is the most rewarding way to travel the Carretera Austral — allow 2–3 weeks for the full route. |
| Where to stay | Explora Torres del Paine — the benchmark lodge in the national park, set on the shores of Lake Pehoé with 40+ guided explorations included, all-inclusive, on its own 15,000-acre conservation reserve. La Posta de los Toldos — nine-room lodge inside Parque Patagonia (Argentina), run by Rewilding Argentina, the only place to stay inside this remote and rarely visited park near Ruta 40 and Cueva de las Manos. Mallín Colorado Ecolodge — a family-run lodge on the azure shores of Lake General Carrera in Chilean Aysén, with 300 days of sun a year, hiking, horses, and nightly set-menu dinners cooked over wood fire. Pata Lodge — six rustic off-grid cabins on a 250-acre working farm and rewilding project on the banks of the Futaleufú River, with farm-to-table cooking, organic gardens the children can harvest from, and the world-class Futaleufú rapids on the doorstep. |
| Currency | Chilean Peso (CLP) in Chile; Argentine Peso (ARS) in Argentina. USD widely accepted at lodges throughout Patagonia. |
| Language | Spanish throughout. English spoken at the lodges named above. |
| Visa | EU, UK, and US citizens enter both Chile and Argentina visa-free for stays up to 90 days. Keep your border crossing receipts — multiple crossings between Chile and Argentina are common on a Patagonia road trip. |
| Notes | Road conditions on the Carretera Austral vary — some sections are unpaved gravel requiring a high-clearance vehicle. Fill up with fuel whenever possible as stations are widely spaced. La Posta de los Toldos operates November to mid-April only. Book Torres del Paine park entry in advance as numbers are capped. The Carretera Austral is one of the world's great drives — plan more time than you think you need. |
Leave a Reply